Archive for May 2010
Stress-Relief Bar
May 12, 2010 | 
Author 
The soothing effects of bath salts in this bar will help anyone wash away stress. The finished bar has a very cool complex appearance to it.
Ingredients:
- 1 lb. Stephenson Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
- 1/2 cup Extra Coarse Sea Salt and/or Epsom Salt
- 1-3 tsp Ocean Breeze Fragrance Oil
- Cosmetic Grade Liquid Colorant (Basic 12 High PH) – Blue Mix
- Aluminum Foil
Directions:
- Crimp the aluminum foil so that it forms a box approximately 6 inches square and 1 inch deep.
- Melt one quarter of the Stephenson Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base.
- Add the Blue Mix color and just stir a couple of times; do not over mix. You want a marbleized look. Do not add any fragrance oil; yet.
- Pour the colored soap into the foil box and immediately sprinkle the top of the hot soap with the Extra Coarse Sea Salts and/or Epsom Salt until completely covered.
- Place the foil box of soap in the freezer for 10 to 20 minutes.
- Melt the remainder of the Stephenson Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base.
- Add Ocean Breeze Fragrance Oil; but do not add any color.
- Allow to cool to about 120 degrees F.
- While the melted soap is cooling, take the other soap out of the freezer. Break the chilled soap into shards 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch square.
- Place the shards into the mold. Pour the cooled, uncolored soap over the shards.
- Allow to harden and cool completely before unmolding.
* This recipe and others can be found in the Melt & Mold Soap Crafting Book
Posted in 
Pillar Candle Labels – Spring Collection
We created beautiful pillar candle labels that wrap nicely around a finished pillar candle. Use for the spring time or any time of year! Easy to print on your home computer using paper, card stock, or full sheet adhesive labels.
The Spring Collection highlights soft, pastel colors.
Click on the colors below to download the labels.
Pale Yellow Pillar Candle Label
Nu-Scents General FAQ
General FAQ
Can I come to your location and look at your products?
We do not have a retail storefront to browse the products. All of our products can be found on our website with detailed product information and pictures.
How did Nu-Scents begin?
In 1999, Nu-Scents Candle was founded in the basement of the owner’s home. The goal of the owner and her daughter was to manufacture candles for resale at area craft and trade shows. In 2000, the business relocated to a retail store in downtown Richmond, IL. The shop contained a retail showroom and an area for manufacturing.
It became apparent to the owner that many customers wanted to learn how to make their own candles. The company began ordering larger amounts of materials and started teaching classes to those who wanted to learn how to make candles. The success of classes and the increased interest in candle making supplies created a need for more space. A warehouse was leased where the company expanded into the candle supply industry.
In 2003, the business moved to a new location in McHenry, IL. This location offered an adequate warehouse and office in addition to sufficient retail space. Along with this move came the creation of a new line of soy based candles named “Soy-Scents.” With the success of their business, Nu-Scents decided to venture online; thus, the website: www.nuscentscandle.com was created. The internet company served to market the new line of candles and offered supplies to candle makers.
Eventually, Nu-Scents put their soy candle line on hold and became a major distributor of soy wax and other related candle making supplies. The business simultaneously branched out to offer a wide selection of bath, body, and soap making supplies. The company is currently focusing its energy on the internet business and is growing steadily. A recent move to Genoa City, WI has given Nu-Scents the ability to increase and widen their product lines. Nu-Scents’ variety of candle, soap, bath, and body supplies allows hobbyists and businesses to purchase all of their products in one great location.
Where is your warehouse located and how do you get there?
Our warehouse is located at 140 Elizabeth Lane in Genoa City, WI 53128. See Directions.
Candle Making Safety Tips
Candles add a wonderfully lit ambiance to any room and make impressive decorative pieces. However, candles can also be extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury and/or damage to a home. Fire professionals have noted that the majority of candle related fires are due to consumer negligence of simple fire safety and/or to the misuse of candles. Please follow these basic safety precautions when using candles to ensure a safe and beautiful environment.
Always keep a burning candle within sight. Extinguish all candles when leaving a room (even if you leave the room for a few moments) or before going to sleep.
Never burn a candle on or near anything that can catch fire. Keep burning candles away from curtains, furniture, carpets, bedding, paper, books, flammable decorations, etcetera.
Keep candle out of the reach of children and/or pets. Do not place burning candles where they can be knocked over by children, pets, or anyone else.
Trim candle wicks to 1/4 inch before burning. Long or crooked wicks cause dripping, uneven burning, and/or large flames.
Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candle use. The candleholder should be sturdy, heat resistant, and large enough to hold any melted wax.
Always place a candleholder on a stable, level, heat-resistant surface. This ensures a safe burning location and will also help prevent glass containers from cracking or breaking and prevent possible heat damage to table surfaces and counters.
Keep the burn pool/melt pool free of wick trimmings, matches, and/or other debris at all times. Debris of any kind in the burn pool could catch fire.
Always read and follow the manufacturer’s safety and use instructions carefully. Never burn a candle longer than the manufacturer recommends.
Keep burning candles away from drafts, ceiling fans, vents, and air currents. This will prevent uneven or fast burning and help avoid sooting and flame flare-ups. Note. drafts could also carry papers or lightweight drapes into the flame where they could catch fire.
Always burn candles in a well-ventilated room. Do not burn too many candles in a small room or in a snug home where there is poor air exchange. The gathering of fumes could cause serious illness. If this does occur, evacuate the area and make sure it is well ventilated before returning.
Never burn a candle all of the way down. Extinguish the flame if it comes too close to the container or holder. For an extra amount of safety, snuff out the burning candle when there is 1/2 inch of wax left in a container or 2 inches of wax remaining for a pillar.
Never touch a burning candle or attempt to move a container or votive candle when the wax is liquefied. The candle and/or containers will be hot and you could get burned.
Place burning candles at least 3 inches apart from one another. This ensures the candles will not make their own drafts that will cause them to burn improperly. The spacing also makes sure that the candles do not draw heat from each other that will cause them to melt faster.
Use a candle snuffer or a wick dipper to extinguish a candle. This is the safest way to prevent burning wick embers from flying and hot wax from spraying.
Never extinguish candles with water. The water can cause the hot wax to splash and the temperature difference between the hot candle and the water might cause a glass container to break.
Be very careful when using candles during a power outage. Never use a candle during a power outage to look for items in a closet or when fueling equipment (such as a kerosene heater or a lantern). Flashlights and other battery-powered equipment are safer sources of light during a power failure.
Always put votive candles in a snug fitting container. This allows the candle to achieve the best burn. Votives are formulated to completely liquefy when burning, fundamentally becoming a small container candle.
Always make sure a candle is completely extinguished and the wick ember is no longer glowing before leaving the room. The flame may be gone, but if the wick is still glowing there is a possibility that it could re-ignite.
Never burn a candle in a container that is chipped or cracked. The change in temperature from a cold, unlit candle to a hot, burning candle could cause the container to break and possibly allow the burning wax to leak out.
Extinguish a candle if it flickers repeatedly, smokes excessively, or the flame becomes too high. The candle is not burning properly and the flame is not regulated correctly. After snuffing out the flame, let the candle cool, trim the wick, and check for drafts before re-lighting.
Never use a candle as a night light. Always keep a candle within sight. Extinguish a candle when leaving a room (even if you leave the room for a few moments) or before going to sleep.
Candle Making Safety Instructions:
Never leave melting wax unattended. Stay near the wax at all times while melting, even if you are using a double boiler remain close to the wax.
Never overheat the wax. If the wax reaches the flashpoint temperature, the wax will spontaneously combust. Also, the fumes from the overheated wax could cause serious illness. If this does occur, evacuate the area and make sure it is well ventilated before returning.
Always keep the wax away from open flames. Candle waxes are fuel for fire.
Always use a thermometer. Take accurate temperature readings while making candles for safety reasons and for optimum results.
Never use water on a wax fire. Instead, use a pot lid to snuff out small flames in a container candle, baking soda to smother small fires, or a fire extinguisher to douse large flames.
Always use pot holders and/or pliers when handling hot pots or containers. Molten wax is extremely hot, as are the pots or containers you are working with, and they could burn you.
Never pour wax down the drain. The wax will solidify and clog the pipes. Instead, pour the excess wax in a milk carton or a can and throw it away in the trash.
Never let candle making grow habitual to the point that you become reckless. That is when accidents and serious injuries could occur.
Note: These Candle Safety Tips are provided by Nu-Scents for the personal use of our customers. No portions of this document may be reproduced for distribution, sale, or publication of any kind without the expressed written consent of Nu-Scents Wholesale, LLC.
Candle Making Troubleshooting Guide
| Problem | Possible Causes | Possible Solutions |
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| Candle smokes excessively when it burns |
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| Candle does not have a good scent throw
(Note: Everyone’s scent palate smells differently!) |
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| Fragrance oil is settling to the bottom of the candle |
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| Second pour is not blending well with the first pour or repour(s) separated from candle after removal |
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| Candle wax is not burning evenly all of the way down. |
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| Candle wick is drowning out (not staying lit) |
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| Candle will not come out of the mold |
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| Candle is getting jump lines (visible lines on the outside of the candle or container candle) |
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| Candle surface has pit marks (small holes) |
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| Candle surface is frosting (white dusty appearance on surface or cauliflower look on surface) |
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| Candle is cracking |
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| Wax is too brittle causing chips to break away |
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| Container candle has wet spots (wax is not adhering to the side of the container) |
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| Container candle is tunneling (melt down the middle and leave leftover wax on sides of container) |
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| Wick is mushrooming (carbon and/or other substances build up on the wick) |
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| Pillar candle is guttering (a hole in the wall of the candle that allows wax to spill out) |
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Candle has a sink hole by the wick (Note: It is normal if a small 1/4 inch “crack” appears by the wick when the candle is completely cooled) |
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| Candle is sweating (oil droplets on candle surface) |
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| Palm wax candle is not crystallizing |
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| The same wick is not working in the soy candle like it did in the paraffin candle |
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| Candle is mottling (white snowflake-like marks all over it) |
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| Flame flickers/sputters |
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| Pillar/Taper/Votive candle is dripping |
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| Candle has dark spots on the top |
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| Pillar candle mold leaks |
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| Colored layers bled together |
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| Candle’s color has faded |
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Note: This Candle Making Troubleshooting Guide is provided by Nu-Scents for the personal use of our customers. No portions of this document may be reproduced for distribution, sale, or publication of any kind without the expressed written consent of Nu-Scents Wholesale, LLC.
Safety Alert: Lotion Candles
The National Candle Association is urging candle manufacturers, distributors and retailers to be alert to the unique safety precautions, ingredient restrictions, and labeling requirements associated with “lotion” candles.
These products are cosmetic lotions manufactured in the form of candles. They are made from waxes having a much lower melting point than the waxes typically used for traditional candles.
Lotion candles are designed to be burned until a sizeable wax pool forms, and then blown out. Consumers can then dip their fingers in the melted wax and apply it to the skin as a warm lotion.
Please be aware that lotion candles are cosmetics, and thus are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). They must conform to FDA ingredient restrictions, and be labeled in accordance with FDA regulations.
All colorants used in lotion candles must meet FDA approval, and fragrances should meet IFRA (International Fragrance Association) guidelines for cosmetics applied to the skin.
Because lotion candles also meet the definition of a candle, they should be labeled with the candle fire-safety warnings of the ASTM F2058 standard as well. However, the size and label placement of the ASTM candle fire-safety warnings will be dictated by the FDA’s labeling regulations, not the ASTM specifications.
If your company manufactures, purchases or distributes lotion candles, we urge you to obtain and follow the FDA’s Cosmetic Labeling Manual and the federal regulations concerning cosmetic ingredients and labeling (21 CFR parts 701 and 740).
If you are unfamiliar with FDA cosmetics regulations, we recommend you contact the Personal Care Products Council for guidance (formerly the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association in Washington, DC).
The National Candle Association (NCA) is extremely concerned that consumers may not understand the difference between these unique “lotion” candles and traditional candles, and may attempt to place their fingers in the hotter wax pool of a typical candle, thereby subjecting themselves to possibly severe skin burns. The NCA is also very concerned that consumers may attempt to place their fingers in the wax pool while the flame is still lit.
For more information please visit the National Candle Association website.
Candle Making FAQ
How do I get started making candles?
There are numerous candlemaking techniques that can be learned. When first starting out, we recommend learning the basics of container candle making before moving onto more difficult techniques. Learning basic container candle techniques allows you to focus on the procedure of candle making while improving your skills.
We have a wonderful candle making video that teaches you the basics of soy candle making, while giving you some helpful hints. From container candles to pillar candles, we also sell a wide variety of candle making kits. These kits come with instructions and the ingredients you need to learn the process of candle making. Be sure to look into the assortment of candle making books and DVDs we offer that demonstrate candlemaking instructions for beginning through advanced candle makers.
How much wax do I need to make the number of candles I want to make?
In order to determine how much wax you need to make a certain number of candles, it is important to know the following:
- 1 pound of Paraffin wax by weight will equal approximately 20oz of liquid melted wax.
- 1 pound of Soy wax by weight will equal approximately 18oz of liquid when melted.
- 1 pound of Beeswax by weight will equal approximately 16oz of liquid when melted.
To determine how much wax a specific container or mold will hold, weigh the container/mold (write down that weight). Remove the container/mold from the scale and add water to the container/mold (when using a mold, be sure to securely plug the wick hole when doing this procedure). Place it back on the scale with the water in it (write down this weight). Now, subtract the first weight from the second weight. This number will tell you approximately how much wax you will need for that specific container/mold. Next, to determine how much wax you will need to make the number of candles you want to make, use the following example: You are using a container that holds 6oz. You would like to make 15 container candles using soy wax. Take the number of ounces your container holds and multiply it by the number of candles you want to make 6 x 15 = 90. This is the number of liquid ounces you will need (90oz). Now, divide that number of ounces by 18 (which is 1 pound of soy wax in liquid form) 90 / 18 = 5. This is the number of pounds of soy wax you will need to make 15 of your 6oz container candles.
Tip: Always figure a little high for your final measurement (it’s easier to have some left over than to try and match the same color)
How do you calculate the burn rate of a candle?
In order to calculate the approximate burn rate of a candle use the following procedure:
First, find out the weight of your wax. For a freestanding candle, simply put the candle on a scale and that is how many ounces the candle weighs. For a container candle, weigh the finished candle. Then, subtract the weight of the empty container from the weight of the finished candle. This is how many ounces the candle weighs. (For example, the finished container candle weighs 16.5oz. The empty container weighs 6.5oz. 16.5 – 6.5 = 10. The weight of the wax is 10oz.)
Next, burn the candle an hour for every inch of the diameter. Be sure to use the diameter of the widest part of the candle. (For example, if the diameter is 3.5 inches, burn the candle for 3 1/2 hours straight to get the most accurate assessment). Write down your beginning time and ending time. Using this burn method, a properly created candle will burn a full melt pool to the edges. If the melt pool reaches the edge sooner, then the wick might be too large for the candle. If a full melt pool is not formed, then the wick is probably too small. At the end of your first test burn, weigh your candle again (for a container candle, be sure to subtract the weight of the empty container from this new weight). Write down the weight of the wax after your test burn and the total minutes burned. Let the candle re-harden and then begin the procedure again. Once the candle has been burned three or four times this way, you’ll have a good idea of its burn time.
Note: The burn time won’t be accurate until you have burned several of the same candles all the way through. To get an estimated burn time from your 3-4 test burns, total your minutes burned. Now, subtract the ending weight from the beginning weight (this is the total ounces of wax that were lost from the beginning of the first burn to the end of the last burn). Divide the total minutes by the total ounces burned. For example, if you burned the candle a total of 720 minutes and you lost 0.5 ounces of weight in the candle, the candle burned 1 ounce every 1440 minutes (720 / 0.5 = 1440).
Next, take your answer and multiply it by the total weight of your wax from the beginning. 1440 x 10 = 14,400 The total minutes of burn time for this example candle would be 14,400 minutes. Divide 14,400 by 60 to get 240 hours of estimated burn time. Be sure to be accurate, keep good notes, and most importantly observe.
How do you make the perfect candle?
Unfortunately, there is no such thing as the “perfect candle.” Candle making is an art. It takes time to test and refine candle making skills in order to achieve a beautiful candle that burns how you want it to, and, even then, no two candles will ever be identical. Given that you adequately research the products and the candle making steps, thoroughly test the items, and apply your own quality control procedures, you will be able to create and enjoy gorgeous, safe hand-made candles. If you do run into some problems, be sure to reference our candle making troubleshooting guide for assistance.
Can I use food coloring for my candles?
Food coloring will not work in candle making. Food colorings are water-based colors that will not mix with the wax. Instead, we recommend using Liquid Candle Dyes or Candle Color Dye Blocks. These colorants are oil-based and work great with many different waxes to create beautiful, long-lasting colors.
Can I use crayons to color my candles?
Crayons are not recommended for use in candle making. It is true that crayons are mostly dyed paraffin wax, but the other particles that make up a crayon could clog a wick, cause sputtering, or other numerous problems. When using a crayon to color a candle, you will not achieve the optimum burn. We recommend using liquid candle dye or candle dye blocks. These colorants have been specially created for the function of coloring candles, and they are ideal for creating a wide range of shades and colors.
What is the ideal burn pool depth of the wax as a candle is burning?
For container candles, the ideal burn pool depth to achieve is 1/4” to 1/2” within about 4-5 hours.
Can I use a Plastic Tealite Cup in my tart warmer?
Plastic tealite cups are made so that you can see the beautiful colored wax through the plastic. They are not to be used inside any enclosed holders such as tart warmers, tealite lamps, or tealite houses. The heat could build up and melt the plastic cup.
How long should you let a candle cure before burning it?
Candles should always be left to cure undisturbed at room temperature (about 70° F) for at least 24 hours before being lit. Candles should remain open during cooling. Larger candles may require longer times.
How long should you let a candle cure before shipping it?
Candles should always be left to cure undisturbed at room temperature (about 70° F) for about 4-7 days before shipping.
Can large candles such as a 12” x 12” be made?
Yes, an enormous candle such as that can be made. Pour the candle as you would normally. Due to the large size of the candle, you may have to do more than two pours. To find a wick, practice with some smaller candles first (this will save you time, money, and energy in the long run). Once you find a wick that gives you the burn, flame size, and quality you are looking for, measure the diameter of the burn pool for that wick. When you design the wick pattern of the large candle, overlap the burn pool diameters a tad to get an even burn. Be sure to leave about a half-inch wall on the candle as it burns down.
Fragrance Oils and Esscential Oils FAQ
How much fragrance should you add to wax?
We recommend using 1 1/2 ounces (also known as 3 tablespoons) of fragrance oil per pound of wax. We have found this to be a great ratio of fragrance to wax. You can go up or down from there depending on the fragrance load that your wax can hold. To find discover, for example, what a 6% fragrance load of 2 pounds would be, look at our measurements chart.
How much essential oil should you add to wax?
We recommend using essential oil by the drop. The recommended amount is no more that ½ ounce (also known as 1 Tablespoon) per pound of wax.
Are your fragrance oils diluted or “cut”?
No, our fragrance oil is 100% concentrated fragrance oil. They are not diluted or “cut” in any way.
Are you fragrance oils strong?
All of our fragrance oils are extremely concentrated. They have been tested, and we have found them to meet our high quality standards for fragrance oil. The word “strong” is an arbitrary term. Scents are subjective to each individual. Everyone’s scent palate smells differently. For example, the cinnamon fragrance oil to one person could give them a migraine, while another person cannot smell it at all.
Which is better Essential Oil (E/O) or Frangrance Oil (F/O)?
Essential oil and fragrance oil are not necessarily better than each other. It all depends on personal preference. Some people prefer essential oils because they are derived from natural elements and can be used for certain remedial applications, whereas others prefer fragrance oils because they are synthetic and offer a wider array scents.
Why are some of my bottles of fragrance oils and essential oils fuller than others?
Our fragrance oil and essential oil are sold by weight, not volume. Therefore, some bottles will appear fuller than others.
Candle Wax FAQ
What’s the best wax?
All of our candle making wax is great for creating high quality candles. To determine which wax best suits your purpose, here are a couple things to consider:
What type of candle are you making? You will need a wax that is formulated for one of the specifications below:
- Container: The candle will be poured into some form of container (ie. glass jar or metal tin)
- Pillar: The candle will be strong and free-standing
- Votive: The candle will be a short pillar that is approximately 1 1/2 inches in diameter and 2-3 inches tall
What type of wax would you like to use?
- Paraffin Wax: A wax that is a byproduct of petroleum
- Soy Wax: A natural wax that is created from the soybean
- Beeswax: A natural wax that is created by bees
- Palm Wax: A natural wax that is created from the fruit of an oil palm.
- Gel: A wax that is a type of mineral oil that is a byproduct of petroleum
Also, you can use our wax selector flow chart to help you find the ideal wax.
What’s the difference between one-pour and two-pour waxes?
Under optimal circumstances a one-pour wax is a wax that only needs to be poured one time for a great finished look. These waxes were invented for incredibly minimal shrinkage. A two-pour or multi-pour wax is a wax that expands when melted and contracts when cooled. This alteration causes the wax to sink and requires a second pour to create a smooth finish.
What is the difference between paraffin and soy wax?
Paraffin wax is a byproduct of petroleum, whereas soy wax is a natural wax that is created from the soybean. Paraffin wax has been around for decades, while soy wax was just created within the last few years. Soy wax is softer wax that burns cleaner, is environmentally friendly, and is virtually soot-free. Paraffin wax is generally more rigid; allows for vast creative flexibility and has various innovative uses.
Wicking FAQ
How do I find the right wick?
Candle wicking is the most difficult part of candle making. It is the most pertinent component of a candle and it must meld entirely with the other elements (for example, wax, fragrance, etcetera) in order to create an ideal burn. Finding the right wick takes patience and a lot of testing. Each recipe for a candle might need a different wick, even if you’re using the same jar and wax. You might find a wick that works great in your 4 oz jar with chocolate fragrance and brown colored soy wax, but that wick might not work properly when you replace the chocolate fragrance with the graham cracker fragrance. In order to find a wick that works best for your purpose, you need to know if you are using a paraffin wax or a natural wax. You also need to know the diameter of the widest part of the mold or container you are using. Once you know this essential information, you can then use our candle wicking chart to determine which wick matches the wax you are using and the diameter of your candle. The Wick Chart is for recommendation purposes. Always test your wicks to see if they will give you the safe burn that you are looking for.
How do you double wick a candle?
In order to double wick a candle, first measure the diameter of the widest part of your container or mold. Then, take that measurement and divide it by 2. Next, use that number as your new diameter, look at our candle wicking chart to find a wick that meets that diameter’s size. (For example, you have a container that is 8 inches in diameter. 8 / 2 = 4 Look at the chart to find a wick that would work well in a 4 inch diameter container. Then, use 2 of those wicks to double wick your container candle.)
Is there lead in your wicks?
No, all of our candle wicks are lead free. Using the element lead in wicks was officially banned in the United States in 2003. If you are looking for a wick with a metal center we offer zinc wicks.
What is a burn rate of a wick?
When looking at our candle wicking chart, the burn rate is the number of grams of wax that is consumed per hour by the wick. The higher the burn rate number, the hotter the flame will be.
What do the three sets of number on the cotton core and zinc core pre-tabbed wicks mean?
The first number is the thickness of the wick. The bigger this number, the thicker the wick. The second number is coded for the speed of which the string (all wicks start out with very thin string) goes through the wicking machine gears. The faster it goes through the machine, the tighter the wick is wicked, which should slow the wick from burning too fast. The last number is a code for the temperature of the wax as the string (wick) goes through the various gears. This temperature varies according to the previous numbers.
What is mushrooming?
Mushrooming is when carbon and/or other substances build up on the end of the wick interfering with combustion. Mushrooming can cause sooting and give off odors.
What is tunneling?
Tunneling occurs when the wick is too small or when the candle is burned for short periods of time. The candle will burn down the middle and leave a wax shell around the outside. Container candles will leave wax attached to the sides of the glass and pillar candles could collapse inward.
What happens if you choose a wick that is too large for the candle?
In container candles, if a wick is too large, it will burn quicker and produce deeper burn pools. It may also cause sooting and short burn times. In pillar candles, guttering may also occur (wax leaking through the side of the candle).
How short should I keep the wick trimmed?
We recommend keeping wicks trimmed to 1/4 inch.