Archive for August 2010
Soap Making FAQ
How do I get started making soap?
There are a variety of ways that can catapult you into the world of soap making. As a beginner, we recommend learning the basics of melt and pour soap making before moving onto more difficult techniques. A great way to learn about melt and pour soap is to view our soap making video. It is a short video that teaches you the basics of soap making. We also sell melt and pour soap making kits. The kits come with instructions and the ingredients you need to learn the process of soap making. We also offer a wide variety of books and videos that illustrate soap making instructions for beginning through advanced soap makers.
Can I use soy wax in cosmetic products?
Yes, a few of our soy waxes can be used in cosmetic products. Nature Soy Wax C-3, Nature Soy Wax C-1, EcoSoya CB135 wax, and EcoSoya Advanced Soy wax are soft enough for cosmetic use and work well in various cosmetic products.
Can I use soy wax in my cold-process soap?
Yes, all of our EcoSoya Soy Waxes are great for use in cold-process soap making.
Can I use food coloring for my soaps/bath and body products?
Food coloring is not the best option for soaps and other bath & body items. Over time, the soap may fade or develop dots of color, and it is not FDA approved for this type of usage. Instead, we recommend using cosmetic grade liquid colorants, micas, ultramarines, oxides, or clays. All of these colorants work wonderfully in bath products to give you radiant, lasting color.
How much herbs should you add to melt and pour soap base?
We recommend using 1 tablespoon of herbs per pound of melt and pour soap base.
What is a standard size bar of soap?
A “standard” size bar takes three to five ounces of soap.
How much essential oil should you add to your carrier oils?
As a general rule, the ratio of essential oil to carrier oil for adults should fall between 2%-3%. This is approximately 40-60 drops of essential oil to a 4 oz bottle of carrier oil, 20-30 drops to a 2 oz bottle, and 6-9 drops for a 1/2 oz bottle.
Fragrance Oils and Esscential Oils FAQ
How much fragrance should you add to melt and pour soap base?
We recommend using 1 1/2 teaspoons of fragrance oil per pound of melt and pour soap base. We have found this to be a great ratio of fragrance to soap base. You can go up or down from there depending on the fragrance load that your soap base can hold. To discover, for example, what a 6% fragrance load of 2 pounds would be, look at our measurements chart.
Pigment Colorant Instructions
(Oxides & Ultramarines)
These will not work in water formulations such as body sprays or low viscosity formulations such as body oils.
Our pigments and micas are sold by weight – not volume – so you’re getting the most for your money!
Color Pigment Instructions:
Cold Process (CP) Soap Making:
Add 1/2 teaspoon (2.5cc) of dye or pigment to 1 oz of carrier oil and mix well. Make sure all the clumps are evenly stirred into the solution before using. You can even choose to add the pigment and oils to a small baggie and squish the baggie with your fingers to get an even mix. Use a dropper to add the colored oil to your warm oils (CP soap), a few drops at a time, making sure you don’t color beyond what you wanted to and stir after each addition.
Melt n’ Pour (MP) Soap Making:
There are three different methods to use it.
- Add pigment directly to MP and stir, stir, stir. This may cause speckling in your soap.
- Add pigment to small baggie and mix thoroughly with oil or glycerin. This way, you can make sure to squish out any speckles. Then, pour the mixture into the melted soap base, reseal your baggie, and save the rest for the next time.
- Make a giant color chip – Mix a small bit of pigment, glycerin or oil (1/2 tsp to 1 tbsp) works fine in a small plastic cup or ice cube tray. Make sure it’s mixed well – until all the pigment is totally dispersed in the oil. Then add the clear MP to the cup and stir up well. Let sit for a few hours to harden and there you have a color chip. The larger container you’re filling up the more pigment you should add initially to be sure your color chip has the most color possible. To use the color chip, just chop off pieces and melt into your soap. However, by using the color chip method you won’t be able to have an accurate usage of color for a recipe notebook.
Melt and Pour Soap Making Instructions (Microwave Method)
Ingredients:
- Melt and Pour Soap Base
- Fragrance Oil
- Vegetable Oil or Petroleum Jelly
- Soap-Safe Colorant
Equipment Needed:
- Microwave
- Scale
- Large Knife
- Soap Mold
- Cutting Board
- Rubbing Alcohol in Spray Bottle
- Metal Measuring Spoons
- Glass Measuring Cup
- Paper Towels
- Notebook
- Pen or Pencil
Directions:
Assemble all of your ingredients, materials, and equipment (including your notebook) before you start. Make sure that your knife, measuring cup, and cutting board are clean and free of any dirt. The soap will pick it up and it will be hard to get out.
Prepare the soap mold by lightly coating the inside surfaces with vegetable oil or petroleum jelly, so that the soap will release easily when cooled.
Place the glass measuring cup onto the scale and zero out the weight. Cut the soap base into small chunks and place them into the measuring cup until you have the amount of soap that your mold will hold (a few tenths of an ounce under or over will not matter).
Cover the measuring cup with plastic wrap and heat the soap in the microwave for 30 seconds on High. Remove the soap and stir. It will be a thin liquid with chunks in it. Heat the soap base again, checking it every 10 seconds. After several 10 sec. melting intervals, remove the soap and stir gently to completely melt any remaining pieces of soap. Be careful! Most soap bases will be about 150-160 degrees when completely melted.
While the soap is heating, measure your fragrance out. A good starting place is .25 oz (or 1 1/2 teaspoons) of fragrance oil per pound of soap. You can go up or down from there for a stronger or weaker scent (maximum amount of fragrance being 1 Tablespoon per pound of soap). Once you have measured your fragrance and removed the soap form the microwave, slowly add the fragrance to the melted soap base and gently stir to completely incorporate the fragrance.
If you want to add some color to your soap, (that’s purely personal preference) you can use soap-safe colorants, micas, or natural colorants. Place a little bit of colorant into the soap and gently stir to completely blend the color; remember you can always add more, but you cannot take away. Don’t stir too hard or you’ll get bubbles in the soap. (NOTE: When colorants are placed in a white soap base the end result will be more pastel in color.) If your soap has started to solidify at this time, you can gently reheat it to re-melt it.
Slowly pour the soap into the mold. Try not to splash the soap or get too many bubbles. If bubbles do appear, lightly spray the tops of the bars with rubbing alcohol. You’re done for now! Carefully move the molds to a safe place (or leave them where they are) and start cleaning up. The soap should be hard enough to un-mold in approximately 2 hours (or longer if the mold is larger). You can hurry this process along by putting the mold in the refrigerator, but don’t put it into the freezer! It will take several hours on the counter or approximately an hour in the refrigerator for the soap to completely cool and harden.
While you’re waiting for the soap to harden, write your results in your notebook. How much soap base did you melt? How many drops of color did you use? How much fragrance did you use? Did you have any soap base left over? Did the fragrance seem strong enough? What fragrance did you use? Etcetera. These are notes that will help you duplicate the results next time or remember not to repeat mistakes you made this time.
When the soap is completely hardened, you should be able to pop the bars out of the mold. Some molds will release easily; some will be more difficult. Tapping the mold firmly with the palm of your hand or a large spoon sometimes helps. For a really persistent bar, you can turn the mold over and run hot water over the back of it. The soap should fall easily out of the mold. You can rub off or trim any imperfections with a cloth or a small knife. Since the melt ‘n’ pour soap base is already cured, there’s no waiting. You can use it right away! If it is not going to be used right away or given as a gift, it should be wrapped in plastic wrap so that it won’t lose its moisture.
LabColor (Cosmetic Grade Liquid Colorants) Color Chart
Here is a color chart to show you the approximate shades of the LabColors (Cosmetic Grade Liquid Colorants). Please note that these are computer generated colors. Colors may vary due to monitor settings and the colors depicted here may not reflect the actual color perceived in the soap. These are just a guideline to assist with choosing shades.
Maximum usage for LabColors is 1 teaspoon. You should never use more than this in any of your products. If the colorants are heated we recommend adding 1% Germaben II.
Low PH LabColors
| Black Cherry | Dark Purple | Hyacinth |
|---|---|---|
| BlackCherryL, BlackCherryO | DKPurple, DKPurpleO | HyacinthL, HyacinthO |
| INCI: Water, Ext. Violet 2, Green 5, Red 40, Red 33, Yellow 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Blue 1, Red 40, Red 33, Yellow 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Ext. Violet 2, Green 5, Germaben II |
| Navy | Santa Red | Sapphire |
| NavyL, NavyO | SantaRedL, SantaRedO | SapphireL, SapphireO |
| INCI: Water, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Red 33, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Red 33, Red 40, Ext. Violet 2, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Blue 1, Red 40, Red 33, Germaben II |
| Sunflower | Teal | Vanilla |
| SunflowerL, SunflowerO | TealL, TealO | VanillaL, VanillaO |
| INCI: Water, Green 5, Ext. Violet 2, Yellow 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Green 5, Red 40, Red 33, Yellow 5, Germaben II | |
| Black | ||
| Black1L | ||
| INCI: Water, Green 5, Yellow 6, Red 40, Red 33, Germaben II | ||
High PH 1 LabColors
| Aqua | Blue Mix | Brilliant Blue |
|---|---|---|
| AquaH, AquaL, AquaO | BMixH, BMixL, BMixO | BrillBlueH, BrillBlueL, BrillBlueO |
| INCI: Water, Green 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Blue 1, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Ext. Violet 2, Green 5, Germaben II |
| Canary | Emerald | Fushia |
| CanaryL, CanaryL, CanaryO | EmeraldH, EmeraldL, EmeraldO | FushiaH, FushiaL, FushiaO |
| INCI: Water, Yellow 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Green 5, Yellow 5, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Red 33, Germaben II |
| Lime | Melon Red | Orange |
| LimeH, LimeL, LimeO | MredH, MRedL, MRedO | OrangeH, OrangeL, OrangeO |
| INCI: Water, Green 8, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Red 40, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Red 40, Yellow 5, Germaben II |
| Peach | ||
| PeachH, PeachL, PeachO | ||
| INCI: Water, Yellow 6, Germaben II | ||
High PH 2 LabColors
| Red | Royal Purple | |
|---|---|---|
| RedH, RedL, RedO | RPurpleH, NRPurple, NRPurpleO | |
| INCI: Water, Red 40, Red 33, Germaben II | INCI: Water, Ext. Violet 2, Germaben II |